Finally, a Buvette Chez Simone alternative

To state the obvious: oysters

At last, the thirsty citizens of Mile End have a British-style pub. One that may be the great white hope of that cursed space on St-Joseph and St-Laurent that can’t seem to host a successful restaurant. But if you’re expecting a Mile End version of Burgundy Lion, you’ll walk away disappointed. Pub Sir Joseph, spawn of well-respected chef Martin Juneau, is more gastropub-inspired than gastropub. It closes at 12 on most weeknights, so it’s not a place to rage. Think of it as a classy, elegant 5-à-7 option.

Pub Sir Joseph offers airy quarters and, most importantly, ample seating to a diverse-in-age after-work drinks crowd. It has an interesting drinks menu, with microbrews, an extensive wine list and cocktails like the Laurent, with bourbon, Aperol, lime and sugar. And there are worse ways to blow through $50 with a friend than on the pub’s dozen-oysters-and-bottle-of-cava deal.

The small plates are an inventive take on pub grub. Instead of a fried something or other with artichoke dip, Pub Sir Joseph serves a whole steamed artichoke, with a vinaigrette. It may be an unusual bar snack, but it also kind of makes sense — finger food at its most elegant. The oysters, a good deal at a half-dozen for $10 and a dozen for $19, were perfectly briny.

Don’t expect to feel bloated after trying the more-delicate-than-they-sound larger plates, like fish ‘n chips and the cheesesteak. Both were remarkably ungreasy, with fresh sides, like a bed of fresh mushy peas on the former and half a head of Boston lettuce on the latter. Both came accompanied (for $4 extra, in the case of the cheesesteak) by tasty thick-cut fries.

The place was woefully understaffed the evening we were there, but the server was friendly and apologetic when we did finally get to order. We got the sense it was a one-time thing and will return. There’s nothing worse than waiting in line for a 5-à-7 (well, maybe waiting in line for brunch), and Pur Sir Joseph offers a nice alternative to that stalwart Reservoir, the nearby Comptoir and the perpetually packed Buvette Chez Simone. ■

Pub Sir Joseph
4902 St-Laurent
514-564-7477
Booze: Obviously
Vegetarian-friendly: Eh, not really. There’s that artichoke.
Wheelchair-accessible: No