Sushi Nishinokaze introduces a new echelon of refinement to Montreal dining

A royal blue noren hangs in the doorway of the storefront formerly home to the longstanding Peruvian restaurant Pucapuca. Billowing gently in the winter breeze, it is emblazoned with the Kanji characters for Nishinokaze (“west wind”). Emblematic of a cultural current carrying traditions and techniques across borders, it is, more specifically, an eight-seat Edomae-style sushiya that introduces a new echelon of refinement and dining to Montreal.

A joint venture by partners Julian Doan and chef Vincent Gee — who previously ran a celebrated sushiya by the same name in Toronto — Sushi Nishinokaze offers a singular experience in Montreal, born of a shared obsession with Edomae sushi and an unwavering dedication to excellence. The Edomae style is rooted in nature’s beauty, emphasizing seasonal ingredients and preparing them in ways that best express their innate qualities. Mastery of this approach demands extensive knowledge and skill, honed over time. Gee, for his part, has spent decades refining his craft in distinguished sushiyas in Vancouver, Toronto and Tokyo. The result is a spectacular 24-course omakase menu that seamlessly balances time-honoured tradition with a modern, personal touch. Gee’s blade moves deftly, and each ingredient is handled with precision and reverence.

That level of care extends beyond the food itself. Beginning with the tokonoma window — featuring a 17th-century Korean Moonjar and three contemporary works by Kuroda Taizo, an acclaimed porcelain ceramist who studied under Québécois artisan Gaétan Beaudin — the restaurant’s philosophy is immediately evident. The space, a collaboration between Montreal-based architect Justin Nguyen and Taichi Kuma (son of world-renowned architect Kengo Kuma), reinforces the theme of cultural exchange, skillfully combining locally sourced white ash with Japanese Hinoki. More artwork, all from Doan’s personal collection, adorns the minimalist and serene dining room.

That level of attention to detail, it should be noted, comes at a cost. At $360 (tax and service included) per guest, Nishinokaze is among the city’s priciest tables. Much of the expense, however, can be justified by the team’s uncompromising approach to sourcing ingredients. The fish — all wild-caught and procured directly from fishermen — is the star, but that same dedication extends to every element. The rice is a proprietary blend of grains cultivated on a spring-fed plot at the base of a mountain near Kyoto. The ikura (salmon roe) arrives uncured and still in its sac — a rarity outside Japan — and is cured in-house and kept fresh using a medical-grade freezer. The raw Matane shrimp took Doan eight months of research and negotiation to acquire. Even the nori comes from a producer with a 300-year pedigree, who is known for supplying Sukiyabashi Jiro, the world’s first three-Michelin-star sushi restaurant, in Tokyo. Every item in the space is meticulously chosen for its quality.

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A striking yet unexpected example of this philosophy is what Doan calls the “Living Gallery” — a collection of dinnerware and serving vessels, again from his personal collection, many of which are museum-quality and, in some cases, nearly priceless. For him, seeing these pieces used as intended is to experience them at their highest form of beauty. On the beverage side, privately imported sake is provided by Déserteur du Vin, complemented by a selection of Champagne and natural wines from esteemed Burgundian producers.

Having officially opened on Feb. 1, Sushi Nishinokaze has already left an impression on many of the city’s most respected restaurant professionals and gastronomes. A question remains, however: Do Montrealers have an appetite for this level of refinement — and at this price point? Fortunately, this model has thrived in nearly every major food metropolis in the world and Nishinokaze’s closest comparison, Sushi Masaki Saito in Toronto, recently earned the city’s only two-star Michelin distinction — and at a price of $680 per person. By comparison, Nishinokaze’s price feels considerably more digestible.

In any case, its arrival feels long overdue, signalling Montreal’s continued evolution as a global dining destination. The restaurant is open Wednesday to Sunday, with two seatings at 6 p.m. and 8:45 p.m. Reservations are mandatory, with payment required at the time of booking. ■

This article was originally published in the Feb. 2025 issue of Cult MTL. For more on Sushi Nishinokaze (5400 St-Laurent), please visit their website.

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