Dublin is easy to love

Visiting a country with such a strong identity that a cornerstone of its nightlife culture has essentially been franchised in every corner of the globe — while its arts exports occupy a significant place in western pop culture — has a way of messing with your expectations.

So, too, does having grown up during a time when Ireland’s divisions dominated the narrative about the country.

But somehow, on my first trip to Ireland, Dublin was spot-on — exactly what I suspected it would be, and as rich an experience as I wanted it to be.

Being fairly compact and concentrated, it was easy to see Dublin’s essential sights by foot. The city combines features common to other European hubs — from historical sites and classical architecture (like Dublin Castle, Trinity College and St. Patrick’s Cathedral) to metropolitan musts like world-class restaurants and hotels, the charming pedestrian shopping strip on Grafton Street and the beautiful Aviva stadium — with more uniquely Irish elements: the harp-shaped Samuel Beckett Bridge (one of many lovely bridges over the River Liffey), the picturesque pubs and colourful doors that brighten up the urban landscape on so many gray days, and the housing in the old industrial corners of the city, which instantly bring to mind the classic cinematic depiction of working class Ireland. (For a more contemporary depiction, however dark, the series Kin is definitely worth a look. I binged both seasons after this trip, which had me thinking in an Irish accent.)

It probably goes without saying that the Dublin pub experience is mandatory, and while the Temple Bar is locally regarded as an overpriced tourist trap, this bright red beacon and the network of surrounding pubs in the Temple Bar District are lovely on the outside (with seasonal hanging potted flowers complementing the vivid facade colours) and full of history and character on the inside. We were impressed by the live music we heard in the two pubs we visited (in different parts of the city), even though my entire crew tends to bristle at live covers of popular songs.

(We heard none of the traditional Irish tunes that play ad nauseum in Montreal’s Irish pubs on St. Patrick’s Day, but surely those greatest hits are on rotation somewhere. We surprisingly heard zero U2 during this trip, either, but there is an entire room devoted to the band in the Little Museum of Dublin. We saw the late Sinead O’Connor represented in a piece of public art in the city, in a tribute mural around the corner from Dublin’s top LGBT bar, the George. The Cranberries did echo out of a few places in our travel. The Irish love their music icons.)

Another way to get a drink in Dublin is to go straight to the source of two of Ireland’s best known brands. The Guinness Storehouse is set up like a museum, with each level of the tower explaining the ingredients, the production process, the history and the marketing of the renowned black velvet stout (with or without a tour guide). The price of entry also includes a full pint of Guinness at the Elevation Bar at the top of the tower, which offers a 360-degree view of Dublin. The Jameson Distillery also provides tours, tastings and flights of their range of whiskeys, as well as cocktails — including a memorable take on an old-fashioned — in an inviting semi-industrial bar area with a transparent floor offering a view into the distillery’s cavernous underbelly.

While James Joyce is Dublin’s leading literary figure as far as public representation in the city go (aside from a Joyce statue, one of many sightings of his likeness was a shop window display featuring caricatures of him and contemporary fellow Dubliner, Cillian Murphy), Oscar Wilde is rendered homage in Dublin with a statue as well, but also with one of the city’s best-rated restaurants. WILDE offers early 20th-century-swank table and bar seating as well as a solarium indoor terrasse for locals and tourists to take advantage of any available sun. It’s a beautifully decorated spot with great cocktails and a broad menu ranging from decadent seafood platters and steaks to burgers and small plates. Along with Jamie Oliver’s equally stellar Chequer Lane restaurant nearby, where we ate on our last night in Dublin, this was an exceptional dining experience.

Among Dublin’s many options for accommodations, the Merrion Hotel is a very special place, and not at all like the grandiose branded chains you’ll find in any major city. This five-star hotel is located in connected converted mansions, with a level of vintage elegance and attentive service that meet every standard of luxury. There are beautifully decorated rooms and dining spaces, a very heated pool (suited to the cool climate) and a 24-hour bar tucked away beyond the hotel lobby (called No. 23). The hotel’s Restaurant Patrick Guilbaud, open for lunch and dinner, is also a destination for those craving the 2-Michelin-star experience.

The Merrion is very proud of its art collection, which is documented in a book that’s included with their afternoon tea service. Your choice from a fine selection of teas comes with a glass of champagne, perfect scones, and delectable sandwiches and sweets. The finale is a set of three delicious pastries that are each inspired by a painting hanging in the hotel.

Adding to the Merrion’s mystique is the fact that the hotel is AC/DC-approved. The Australian rock band had played the final concert of their farewell tour in front of over 82,000 people in Croke Park the night before we arrived, as we learned after walking through the crowd of fans waiting outside — which explained the hundreds of AC/DC shirts being worn all over the city that day. We later saw singer Brian Johnson inside, wearing one of his signature caps, casually greeting one of the hotel staff. It seems like the Merrion Hotel was their go-to.

Adding to Dublin’s charm was an aspect of Ireland that legitimately took me by surprise: it’s completely bilingual, with Irish holding its own as an official language beside English, from signage and packaging to loudspeaker announcements and phone messages. (Unlike Quebec’s linguistic makeup, Irish is rarely spoken by the population but is included out of respect to the nation’s cultural heritage — imagine Canada (or Quebec) making an Indigenous language official.)

In any language, Dublin is a city that’s easy to love — ‘Is furasta grá a thabhairt do Bhaile Átha Cliath.’ ■

Nonstop flights from Montreal to Dublin are offered by Air Canada. This article was originally published in the Oct. 2024 issue of Cult MTL.

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