Michelin doesn’t understand Montreal

Yesterday, the inaugural Michelin Guide for Quebec was revealed — and what a disappointment it has turned out to be.

This, however, was always the fear. Michelin is a very specific brand that, historically, is known for seeking out and rewarding a very specific type of restaurant. When it was announced that the guide was coming to Quebec, the hope was that the brand was evolving. Michelin has a type, and it’s not exactly what we do or value in Montreal — but as one of the great restaurant cities in Canada and a sought-after food destination internationally, we hoped the guide would adjust slightly to reflect the quality and cultural relevance of local restaurants while still maintaining its characteristically high standards.

When I made my predictions earlier this year, I had little expectation that any restaurants in Montreal would receive two or three stars, but optimistically, I suspected our many excellent restaurants would be recognized with a single star or, at the very least, honoured in the Bib Gourmand category — which, in many cities, has helped excellent restaurants gain Michelin recognition even if they fall short of a star. I could live with that. Instead, what we’ve been given is perhaps the best publicity campaign Quebec City has ever seen.

Of the 10 stars given to the province, only 3 were awarded to Montreal — 6, by contrast, were awarded to restaurants in Quebec City. Fine. When it comes to Michelin’s type of fine dining establishment, Quebec City has more restaurants that follow the rubric. In the Bib Gourmand section, however, Quebec City also outpaced us, getting 8 of the 17 spots, whereas Montreal only took 7. I’m thrilled to see Sabayon get the recognition it deserves — truly. Mastard too, helmed by the ever-consistent Simon Mathys, was one of my star predictions, and it fared well.

I suppose the list is just perplexing. Quebec City received the lion’s share of the most prestigious awards, but Montreal has far more total references in the guide — chalk it up to restaurants per capita, maybe. Still, it’s a reality that feels somewhat insulting. Montreal is known across the country, and in many parts of the world, as a premier dining destination, and yet, if you were visiting Quebec and had to choose your destination based solely on food, Michelin would firmly steer you toward Quebec City over Montreal. And that’s a conclusion I fundamentally disagree with.

This reveal comes at an especially interesting moment: the 2025 edition of Canada’s 100 Best Restaurants was just announced last week. While arguably less rigorous than Michelin (though Michelin’s process is famously opaque), the list tends to be a reliable reflection of what’s exciting and high-quality in the Canadian restaurant landscape. Montreal landed 25 restaurants on that list. Quebec City had 2. That’s a substantial discrepancy, no?

How does a restaurant like Mon Lapin — which has been named the best restaurant in Canada two years in a row and ranked second in Canada this year — get relegated to the lowly “recommended” section alongside Schwartz’s? By what merits does Europea deserve a star but not Toqué? Why ARVI and not Cabaret l’Enfer? To me, it all just feels so out of touch.

Perhaps that’s the real issue: Michelin doesn’t understand Montreal.

Maybe it’s unfair to say, but to me, this list reads like it was compiled by a wealthy uncle who got all his restaurant tips from the hotel concierge. It’s not to say that it’s entirely wrong — many excellent restaurants deservedly got their flowers — but the hierarchy of praise seems to privilege a single, over-styled morsel of food (served on a rock, in a bowl of pebbles, on a slab of wood) over a genuine understanding of a city’s dining culture. That isn’t what we do in Montreal, and I am extremely proud of that fact.

Another thought occurred to me while reading this list: while I — and, I assume, many of you reading this — lend great credence to the opinions and rankings of Michelin judges, how many of us actually consult their guides when planning a trip or making a reservation? And as I reflect on the selections made in my city and the clear lack of understanding therein, I have to wonder about the overall quality of other Michelin Guides — what did they get wrong there? Not so long ago, Gault&Millau was considered the authority on where to eat across the globe. How many of us even remember it now? As the world of restauration changes and evolves, I have to question, maybe foolishly, if the Michelin Guide will become a less and less relevant barometer for what is good.

Look, in the end, it’s not all terrible. Nearly every restaurant that I predicted would be on the list appears (though most in the “Michelin Recommended” section) and, barring a few glaring omissions — Bar St. Denis, Hélicoptère, Sushi Nishinokaze — most of the great Montreal restaurants appear. You just have to go digging to find them. Plus, what’s the point of being in the Michelin Guide if it doesn’t come with a star?

Yesterday’s reveal took place at Casavant, a Bib Gourmand selection in Villeray. It’s a spot that I feel is emblematic of a certain style of Montreal restaurant — one not seemingly very appreciated by Michelin at large — and yet, of all the possible venues, of all the ways to celebrate the moment and the arrival of the guide, they opted for an intimate lunch at the stylish corner bistro known for its deep selection of natural wines and clever, French-influenced cooking. No reveal in Quebec City, no tasting menu at Europea or lavish lunch at Mastard — just something simple, elegant and intimate. Which is exactly the kind of thing Montreal restaurants excel at.

I know this may come across like the complaining of a sore loser — or like a restaurant owner disagreeing with a critic — but I promise you, that’s not what this is. My disappointment is this: that the uniquely generous, thoughtful, and creative style of dining Montreal is known for is either misunderstood or simply not valued by Michelin. I don’t believe our style is an acquired taste. I believe it’s studied, considered, and delivered with an unbridled love for the romance of restaurants. We do away with pretension and embrace the indulgent. Our cooks are world-class. Our service is professional and sincere. And our restaurants, simply put, are second to none.

Quebec City may have cornered the market on boreal-themed fine dining, but Montreal is still the best damn restaurant city in Canada. ■

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For more on the Michelin Guide for Quebec, please visit the Michelin website.

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For more on the food and drink scene in Montreal, please visit the Food & Drink section.