Mile End brasserie Molenne doesn’t try too hard, but gets everything right

Molenne isn’t just another brasserie — it’s a place with a name and a history that makes it feel like it’s always been there. The name itself comes from the pronunciation of the words “Mile End” in Joual, the old French-language dialect that adapted many words and phrases into something distinctly Québécois.

That mix of past and present is woven into everything Molenne does. Set in the former beloved Café Mei on St-Laurent Boulevard, it’s a brasserie that doesn’t try too hard but gets everything right — intentional, nostalgic and fresh, thanks to its young and hip-looking staff à la Mile End. 

The menu celebrates Quebec’s terroir with thoughtful, classic dishes, from a rich tourtière from Lac-Saint-Jean with duck and rabbit to a cheesecake topped with Louis Cyr cheese, the vision of pastry chef Tina Nguyen.

Rooted in French-Montreal brasserie traditions, the cuisine stays tied to local ingredients while also reflecting the team’s travels. Seafood takes centre stage, with oysters, razor clams and sea urchin from Rimouski. Dishes curated by chef Louis-Joseph Rochefort (Bouillon Bilk, le Serpent, with a stint at Attica in Australia) are generous yet refined, balancing the heartiness of French-Quebec cuisine with a modern wine bar touch.

The space is the brainchild of industry veterans François Séguin-Letendre (Soif Shanghai) and Pierre-Olivier Besner. Partners Alexandre Hallé-Quinlan (co-founder of Lacou in the Caribbean, now running the seafood program), sommelier Miro Ramirez-leclair and bar manager Gia Bach Nguyen complete the team.

Beyond the food, Molenne’s interior transports guests through time. Designed by Atelier Séguin Besner, the space subtly nods to its past as a horse hay depot and part of Montreal’s old racetrack, keeping the spirit of the neighbourhood intact. The artwork on the walls, a collaboration with Jeanie Riddle, reinterprets archival equestrian images from the Bibliothèque Nationale, adding to the dialogue between past and present.

At its heart, Molenne is a brasserie meant to be a fixture — where faces become familiar, wine flows with conversation, and before you know it, you’re on a first-name basis with the staff. ■

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