Market share: slaw and order

Kohlrabi and friends at the Birri Brothers stand at the Jean-Talon Market
Photos by Stacey DeWolfe 

In the summer, there is nothing better than sitting down to a dinner of farm-fresh vegetables. Cherry tomatoes with olive oil and basil, buttered corn on the cob, barbecued kale — yes, kale — with coconut milk and garlic; this is the food of kings. Sure, a grilled steak or juicy hamburger do well to balance out the plate, but those treats can be had all year ‘round. Summer is the only time locally grown produce is available in such quality and abundance, so it is paramount that you venture out now before this all-too-short season comes to an end.

But a trip to the market, though visually resplendent and ripe with possibilities (pun intended), can be a little intimidating to the uninitiated. With so many unfamiliar fruits and vegetables on display, the shy and less culinarily literate can be tempted to play it safe. And while playing it safe can still get you a gorgeous haul of carrots, beets and potatoes, you might be missing out on the experience of trying something that will change your life or, at the very least, provide some variety, colour and texture to your meal.

When I was a kid, I loved broccoli stalk. Broccoli itself, with its overcooked florets that got stuck between my teeth, I could live without. For years, I walked past kohlrabi in the market, too insecure about the fact that I didn’t know what the hell it was to ask someone what I should do with it. Then, one day, I took a leap and bought some.

My first impressions: it was not the most attractive vegetable (a title I reserve for the purple eggplant), it was a total pain in the ass to peel (and actually gave me a knuckle cramp), and it tasted like broccoli stalk (but better, peppery). A quick Google search told me what I needed to know:

Kohlrabi is a member of the brassica family, which also includes things like kale, broccoli, cauliflower and brussel sprouts. And like these vegetables, it has antioxidant properties that make it a valuable contribution to the plate. Many people like to cook kohlrabi — I have even seen it turned into frites — but for me, the easiest way to enjoy this crunchy delectable is to turn it into slaw. Here’s how:

Kohlrabi as slaw. Order is restored.

First, cut off the leafy greens, which can be sauteed like spinach or kale but do not belong here.

Second, make yourself a drink, put on some good music, and peel the kohlrabi bulbs. For this recipe, I would use two bulbs. Some people suggest peeling them twice to ensure that you get rid of the stringy parts.

Then, run the bulbs through a Cuisinart, or some other such slicer/grater apparatus, with about 3–4 of carrots and dump the results into a bowl or container.

Finally, add 2 tablespoons of yogurt, 1 tablespoon of olive or grapeseed oil, 2 tablespoons of chopped cilantro (or better yet, cilantro root), a little minced garlic, 2 tablespoons of bottled horseradish, 1 teaspoon of apple cider vinegar (or other vinegar, if you are so inclined), 1 teaspoon of maple syrup (or honey or sugar) and salt and pepper to taste.

Serve with grilled chicken or red meat, or, as seen here, with fried cod from Poissonnerie Gaspésienne at Marché Jean-Talon. ■